![]() Let’s talk about the six basic sweater armholes, what they mean for your shape, and what type of fit each will give you. If you’re a knitting engineer, this is the kind of overly-specific and mathematical stuff you’ll love. This book was written for plus-sized women, but the concepts work for everyone-how to customize armholes, sleeve caps, lengths and widths, and tricks for modifying different sweater types. I cover these concepts and a ton of other sweater elements in my book, Knitting Plus. Learn about all the sweater elements and what they mean for you in the book Knitting Plus. How do you decrease stitches in this area? Through armhole shaping! Look at the cross-back and bust circumference marks in this diagram-these measurements mean a lot when it comes to fit and sweater type. ![]() So a sweater that fits my bust will lead to excess fabric at the cross-back (a look we call “Dad’s sweatshirt”), UNLESS I decrease stitches between bust and shoulder seam. But my cross-back measures 5” less than that. Half my bust measures 19.5,” so it follows that the front of my sweater by itself would need to measure 19.5” wide. Now hold the tape measure behind your neck and measure from shoulder point to shoulder point, about where the armhole seam on a fitted T-shirt falls. Let’s flesh out this concept: Grab a tape measure and measure the circumference of your bust at the fullest point. Convert that to a sweater and your only solution is to work heavy bust modification into the garment, and lovely as that sounds on paper, it just doesn’t work for most patterns with their lovely stitches and motifs mucking everything up. Have you ever worn a button-up shirt that fit you oh-so-cute in the arms and back, but gaped at the buttons on your chest? That’s because you’re wearing a rectangle that is SMALL enough for your shoulders, but too small for your bust. If your bust is busty, you need a pyramid or a cone sweater type (see featured illustration) because you need a sweater that narrows from bust to shoulder. The basic concept here is this: The bigger the difference between your bust and your shoulder, the more tailoring you need in the body along the armhole edges. What’s your bust got to do with it? Well, this week I’m going to walk you through 6 types of sweater armholes and what they have to do with your body, starting with the bust. And the kind of armhole that will give YOU the best fit is largely determined by your bust. We talk about waist shaping and bust darts and ease and a host of other things when we talk about fit, but my firm belief has always been: fit starts with the armhole. There are a lot of elements that go into a sweater’s fit.
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